Toy Train To Shimla A Journey To Independence

The ghostly clouds tumbled over the peaks into the valley as in the distance a plaintive train horn sounded echoing off the sheer pine and cedar tree covered mountains.

Standing in the garden of the former residence of the Viceroy of India surrounded by colourful mix of flowers that would be as much at home in an English country garden as they were here 7,000 feet up in the Himalaya’s.

Viceroy’s mansion at Shimla where many key decisions were made about India.

A klaxon signalled yet again, as the veils of rolling moisture continued to billow and obscure the gorge view far below and also of the train that had generated it.

Slowly, as it made its way into Summer Hill Station, which is just short of its final destination that of the towering hill top town that clings to the precipitous cliffs that is the town of Shimla.

Travelling through the mist on Kalka to Shimla Toy Train.

This unique location is reached either by a nearly 5hour, sedate narrow-gauge train journey or a slightly faster stomach-churning one by car. Dodging heavy lorries and buses nearly all with a penchant for overtaking on bends of which there are hundreds on the dizzying 4-hour drive to Kalka.

Riding The Toy Train To Shilma

At times it almost appears that you are in some sort of computer driving race game but only to find…it’s for real!

My preferred choice is certainly the former.  As it rattles, clanks and sways on its 90-kilometre journey slowly climbing from the heat of India’s tropical plains to the comfort of the temperate climate of Shimla.

Winding the way up to Shimla.

The very reason that the town grew in the first place was because of that cooling UK like climate. Developed by the then British rulers, as the summer capital of what was often referred to as ‘the Raj’!

Over 800 bridges and 103 tunnels have to be traversed before you can complete the ride on the ‘Toy Train’ as it’s become known as.

Over 800 bridges and viaducts were built on the railway.

The town of Kalka is where the journey starts and most visitors and tourists arrive in the town on Shatabagi Express from New Delhi where a short walk and switch from a standard gauge train to narrow gauge train is done in a minute.

Certainly, a change of comfort from sealed air conditioning and moderately moveable seats to a fixed padded bench and simple sliding windows for ventilation will be your mobile home for the next several hours.

Kalka to Shimla on the Toy Train.

Trundling around what seems to be endless curves as the frequent call of the engine’s horn warns animals, people and vehicle crossing points that the ‘Toy Train’ is closing in. Not that it ever reaches a speed above 25 mph at any point on the route.

Video: Ride from Kalka to Shimla On the Toy Train

As the altitude slowly increases so the flora changes and I guess the fauna too? However, I did not see many wild creatures but certainly numerous farm animals and the odd monkey and bird.

The heat and tropical feel around Kalka, is marked out by Date and other exotic palms growing there naturally. This is long before the tectonic action thrust them further east over millennia from the Mediterranean pushing them centimetre by centimetre over time into the Himalayan foothills of the present.

Kalka to Shimla vegetation changes on the route.

Lush vegetation continues but climbing higher, then you start to see a change in the trees as more temperate foliage takes over and then pine trees become dominant species. Arriving hours later in Shimla where their iconic and endemic cedar trees certainly command the skyline around the town.

Shimla with a typical English church and pine and cedar trees.

Life inside the train continues with chattering amongst the passengers as the cosy confines of the carriage encourages small talk to help pass the time as the tunnels are slowly ticked off one by one, all 103 of them!

Station stops on the line are fairly frequent but only just enough to drop off or pick up local citizens who live alongside the track or have been making shopping trips to nearby communities.

Kalka to Shimla  the stop at Barog.

Those tourists bound for Shimla can get caught out if they wander too far from the platforms. With a short toot from the engine holidaymakers can find the train slowly moving off and a speedy dash to return is required for those foolish enough to roam.

Roaming too far away is not a good idea for snaps and selfie’s. The longest tunnel is here at Barog.

Visitors, generally travel in pre-allocated carriages to the local people.  However, on such a long trip popping into the next-door carriage is a worthwhile station hopping experience to see and chat about their reasons for using the train.

Ready to board as the train pulls in for a stop.

Viaducts span the wide sheer faced canyons with smaller stone bridges spanning the narrower ravines. The work undertaken by the surveyors, architects and engineers over 100 years ago was indeed remarkable and makes this particular train journey one of the most exceptional train trips in the world.  Indeed, crossing over 800 of them on the route north.

Many Bridges, Tunnels and Viaducts On The Route

Firstly views to the left of the carriage, then views to the right as the train traces the meandering gentle rising contours of the hills on its 95kilometre climb. Flashes of the brightly painted homes on concrete stilts in the far valleys can be seen.  Although shrubs and trees constantly block the views only for them to suddenly return again in a flash.

Colourful houses and a glimpse of the faster route the road!

This seems to be the theme of journey, so finding clear spots for pictures can be a bit of a challenge. However, you do have time on your side to learn that skill!

Journeying through the cloud laden hills is often part of the experience. At times punching through the thick fog and mist to brilliant sunshine, can be pretty memorable.

Kalka to Shimla on the Toy Train.

The stations are a hub of activity with food and drink sellers along with waiting passengers thronging the platforms often loaded down with bags, packages or suitcases.  However, being India, no queues as such.

Tourists And Locals Use The Toy Train Service

Here its every person for him or herself! Passengers launch their numerous bags into the tiny rail cars urgently followed by them.

Kalka to Shimla on the Toy Train.

A cheerful ticket inspector or ‘train captain’ is there to check passengers.  The high tech ticketing or ticket checking has not yet reached the ‘toy train’ or indeed some of their main line counterparts. The Indian rail system employs literally millions upon millions of people and the good old printed sheets has and continues to do the job for them.

Train Captain on the Toy Train.

Arrival into Shimla after some four and half hours, I am fairly certain is welcomed by both tourists and locals alike.

However, journeys end does have a certain sadness attached to it.  A continuation of the motion and swaying of the Toy Train did seem to persist for a few hours after too.

Locals riding the rails on the Kalka to Shimla  route.

The charming colonial styled town of Shimla did certainly reflect an age now disappearing fast from human memory.  Its charm never the less remains, as does its friendliness and of course its most agreeable English summer-like climate.

Shimla helped to play a significant role for the nation and the railway is almost a simile of that journey.

Slowly climbing, twisting and turning on route to the summit.

The station sign at Shimla at the summit.

Finally, that summit was that of the rebirth of the independent nation of India back in 1947.

Although, it is fitting that the last stop of Shimla was in fact where many of those important negotiations and some of the final decisions about it’s course were made.