Portland Spies Tracking Them Down Just Like MI5 Did

Sixty years ago in 1961 a major MI5 investigation and surveillance operation ended with the arrest of the Portland Spies. Reverberate and Trellis were detained by Special Branch.

Those were the code names given to two of Britain’s most notorious spies.

This is a brand new walking and cycling route to explore in Dorset and I compiled it to help tourists trace some of the key locations that were all part of the famous Portland Spy Ring story.

The idea is to locate and identify places that were crucial in the 1960’s Cold War story is about Harry Houghton (Reverberate) and Ethel Gee (Trellis).  The two Portland based spies.

Portland spies Harry Houghton and Ethel Gee from his book.

The couple who met at Portland.  Both were tangled up over many years with an infamous cell of Soviet illegal spies!

On The Trail Of The Portland Spies

Firstly, where is Portland?

Located on the South coast of the UK in the county of Dorset. A sleepy seaside, farming and fishing county in general at that time.

Which today still in terms of tourism helps to make it a very desirable place to explore for any visitor or tourist.

Although, when the story took place it was also the location where the Royal Navy underwater weapons and detection technology was being tested and developed.

As this Cold War spy yarn unravels you get to explore the unique Island of Portland and the countryside and history of South Dorset. Hopefully exercising and educating you as you follow some or all of the route.

Some of the detail for this is drawn from Houghton’s own book.  Called Operation Portland the ‘Autobiography Of A Spy’. Plus material from declassified MI5 documents from that period too.

Portland Bill lighthouse Portland, Dorset UK.

My starting point would be Portland Bill lighthouse.  The most southerly point of the Island of Portland. Setting off and taking the route along the west cliff past one of two other lighthouses also found at what is called locally.  ‘The Bill’.

Portland Bill lighthouse left and the Upper Light right now a holiday home.

Heading past a National Coast Watch tower its not long before a huge complex of concrete buildings starts to come into view ahead to the right.

Key Location For Spying On Underwater Research

This was once the Admiralty Under Water Weapons Establishment (AUWE (S) ) but it was not where Houghton and Gee actually worked.

AUWE (S) where underwater weapons and detecting work was carried out.

Although work carried out there was critical to the development of undersea ASDIC (Anti-Submarine Detection System)  later called SONAR (Sound Navigation and Ranging) that what was being used by the Royal Navy in the late 50’s and 60’s.

It’s not beyond the bounds of possibility that they both could have visited at times as part of their work. But it was certainly on the Russian’s list to find out more of the research work going on there.

I personally visited when it closed and I did see large water tanks and acoustic dampened research units within the complex.

Houghton’s Russian controller Gordon Lonsdale (Konon Molody) wanted him to recruit someone from there into their spying triumvirate. Houghton flatly refused as it would be dangerous for him and likely that he would have been found out had he attempted that.

Work on torpedoes like the ‘Tigerfish’ went on there.  Within more recent times for instance in the Falkland’s war.  Those fired from HMS Conqueror and that sank the General Belgrano would have been developed there.

The west cliffs popular with climbers.

Walking past the site now it’s a business industrial estate, hotel and school complex.  Still surrounded with that military protective chain link fence.  The cliffs on the left are steep and popular with climbers and also for spotting nesting seabirds too.

Where the fence ends walk around another 750metres and take the footpath to the right to the junction of Weston Road, Weston Street and Avalanche Road.

First Of Four Places Harry Houghton Used For Spying

Head east along Weston Road towards Pennsylvania Castle area Cove Caravan Park and Church Ope Cove.

Harry Houghton one of the Portland Spies owned a caravan here above Church Ope Cove.

When you get to the road junction a short diversion to the right along the road for 150metres to where the road slightly bends. Here you will see part of a caravan site.  It was here that Harry Houghton had a caravan and where he could keep an eye on shipping movements. For the Navy base was very active at the time with dozens of ships using the Royal Naval dockyard and harbour.

Retracing your steps leave the Pennsylvania Castle building to you right. The castle was built in the late 1790’s by John Penn, Governor of Portland and grandson of William Penn the founder of Pennsylvania in the USA. Then walk past the small thatched building of Portland Museum (certainly a visit there would be educational about the Island and its history in general).

Walk down the narrow lane and here you pass yet another Castle. Rufus Castle.

Rufus Castle near Church Ope Cove.

Just to your right you will see a series of steep steps heading down past a ‘Pirates graveyard’ as it’s called locally.  Then further on down to the beach itself at Church Ope Cove.

A Russian RV at Church Ope Cove at Portland.

Harry wrote in his book that after making a series of light signals out to sea one night that he met two Russian agents on the beach.

Portland Spies Help Russian Agents To Land In England

He was told not to speak to them but just to escort them to the top of the steps and drive them away off the Island of Portland.

How they go there he claims he did not know.  Was it a submarine or trawler?  But seemed to indicate the former, as it would be stealthier.

They were both wearing wellington boots he remarked. On the journey away from Portland the drive was thrown into total chaos as they left on the mile and a half long causeway to Weymouth there was a police road block!

Harry Houghton’s book now out of print and hard to find.

Something that was a regular occurrence with two prisons on the island.

This was exactly for that purpose so the car was waved through.  As the prison staff would know their prisoners and have no reason to detain any that were not known to them.

That mission turned out to be the first of two of that type.  The other one he wrote about was a similar assignment  at Lulworth.

Leaving Church Ope head back through what is called Wakeham through the village of Easton and to the area called New Ground and next to the Portland Heights hotel.

Here you get one of the very best views in the UK. As you can look out to the west and see the 18 mile long Chesil Beach stretch off into the distance.

Chesil Beach Dorset, Britain.

The viewpoint today also has a set of Olympic rings made of Portland Stone. This is to commemorate the London 2012 Olympics as Portland was the sailing venue for the games.

Looking down you can see the view back to Weymouth and a large section of the enclosed and safe anchorage of Portland harbour.

Ethel Gee Lived Here!

Also, the next Houghton and Gee connection.

Portland and Chesil beach looking West Ethel Gee’s house marked with arrow.

This is where Ethel lived at 23 Hambro Road at Fortuneswell and worked at the UDE in the dockyard. This terrace of red brick houses can be seen from there.

After leaving jail Harry told one story of how he would park his car in the adjacent car park and enter the house via the back lane.  This was in the early days after they were both released from jail.  Thus avoiding the press that always seemed to gathered out the front!

Gee’s house, Hambro Road.

Before leaving this view point near the Portland Heights Hotel head along New Ground to the right about 700 metres and then take sharp left turn down onto Verne Hill Road.  Before almost immediately joining the footpath route around the Verne Prison citadel.

Keep on the footpath until you reach the Verne Hill Common Road.  Then follow the switch-back road route up to the imposing entrance arch to The Verne. There is also a set of steps that can be used. From here you can see over what was the Portland Naval Base now Portland Port.

Great Views From The Verne Arch

The location of where the actual UDE (Underwater Detection Establishment) was located is unfortunately just out of view. If you walk up the slope to the end where there is a deep gully which stops further progress.  The area where ‘Bunty’ Gee’s  work place once stood can just be glimpsed. Warning its very hazardous!

The safer alternative is a further trek, cycle or drive to where the Jailhouse Café is located.

Jailhouse Cafe Portland, Dorset

Here entry through that giant Portland Stone arch is the route.  Once the cafe reopens after Covid it is from there that you will see clearly the former site of the UDE.

Here Ethel Gee worked and stole documents and plans of Britain’s first nuclear submarine HMS Dreadnought.

To get there you need to continue to walk through the arch up the slope leaving the main prison entrance to your right.

Go To Jail…Well The Cafe!

It is OK by the way you will not need to worry that you will be handcuffed and marched inside! Fearing that perhaps you had to join inmates like former pop singer Gary Glitter or his real name Paul Gadd who is currently serving his sentence there.

The Verne Citadel arch entrance.

Veer left at the main prison entrance and continue up the hill and look for signs for the café. If you head towards the huge white golf ball radar and tower you are going in the right direction.

Not only a different place to stop for a drink or meal but the views from the garden are really special too. Portland Harbour, Weymouth Bay and a good chunk of the Jurassic Coast are possible from it.

Former UDE building just a pile of bricks in the former Portland Dockyard. Railway bridge, left.

The actual location of the building that Ethel Gee worked was at the junction of where the harbour arm heads out to the east.

Demolished a few years ago.  It was down near where a rail bridge crossed near to the edge of the dockyard that Harry told about another exploit with the Russians.

UDE as it would have looked (© Nick Clatford)

Helping Russian Agents Into Navy Research Site

There Houghton claimed he aided agents climb down into the dockyard.  In order to gain entry to the offices one night whilst the security guard was having a meal.

Perhaps calling back to Hambro Road is an option from here. Although, you would have been able to see the road from that Portland Heights hotel viewpoint at least.

Hambro Road.

Heading down from the Verne citadel the next stage of the walk will take you roughly on part of the route of the old railway line to Weymouth. This was when it was operating prior to the ‘Beeching cuts‘.  It linked Weymouth and Easton and the last passenger train ran on the 27^th March 1965.

Called the ‘Merchants Incline’ it was a route to lower Portland stone from the quarries to the harbour. Here at the bottom in Castletown you pass a castle built by Henry VIII on the way to Weymouth.

Henry VIII’s castle at Castletown, Portland.

Passing the Weymouth and Portland National Sailing Academy.  Walking or cycling on a section of the ‘Rodwell trail’ as it’s called now.  You head over the former train track bed along Hamm Beach.  With Chesil Beach to your left and Portland Harbour to your right.

Once into the area of  Wyke Regis the path veers to the right around the charming little beach area called Smallmouth. Popular with young families.

A Spy And Castle Tour !

Further along and just before you spot yet another castle; Sandsfoot Castle.

Walking or cycling to Sandsfoot Castle, Wyke Regis.

On the right is the Castle Cove Sailing Club as you approach a former rail bridge a footpath slopes to left and if you take this short diversion you will be at the end of Rylands Lane.

Houghton lived at number 34 on the right hand side (400metres) from the trail. He stayed there with his first wife after he returned from Poland.

The House where Harry Houghton lived before moving to Broadwey.

It was whilst working in Poland he was first approached by Polish intelligence services and asked to spy for the Soviet East!

Returning to the trail and using the castle location as a view point to look east.  You will see a section of the extensive Portland Harbour breakwater.

An AUWE (N) building on the Portland Harbour sea defence walls.

On it are a series of buildings once used to test underwater weapons. The Bincleaves site as it was called was all part of the AUWE (N) set up.

It is hard not to imagine that Harry Houghton must have surely passed on some pictures of those too? He never mentioned that in his book. However, it would certainly have been of great interest to the Russians too!

Following the Rodwell Trail into Weymouth town itself.  Here I have an option for a possible short rest. Over Westham Bridge and on King Street is the railway station.

Rest A While Take A Train

Catch a train from the  station, just one stop to Upwey. A short walk from Upwey station onto Littlemoor Road and the area of Broadwey.  Turn right through the underpass below the tracks and just on your left is Meadow View Road.

Meadow View Road.

The other option is to take a route nearby to the station alongside Radipole Lake and walk or cycle to Spa Road (1mile). Turn right then join Dorchester Road over the rail bridge and head north to Littlemoor Road (1.6 miles).

Harry lived at  No 8 Meadow View.

Harry Houghton’s house a surveillance picture. © Crown Copyright

 It is rather tucked away and when he lived there the house would have had a meadow view! As it was pretty well the last house in the street. The housing estate surrounding it is from the 1980’s.

The current owner is well aware of the story.  She told me it was purchased by her parents in 1963 after the trial when Houghton and Gee were jailed for 15 years. In the end they served nearly 10 years and were released on the same day.

Harry Houghton’s house today still not easy to see as the access to it has been changed.

House owner Nicki recounted one story that she remembered as a young girl that it was strange that the bathroom window was covered over with green paint. She then found out that Houghton was using the bathroom for processing films and the green paint would help to keep it light tight for developing of the photographic materials he was using for his spying.

Last Section Of The Route To The MI5 Bunker

Turn left out of Meadow View head towards the roundabout about 300 metres where there is a footpath and cycle way on the left running alongside the Weymouth Relief Road.

Follow the trail to the very top of the Ridgeway (1.7 miles) where a concrete arched bridge spans the road. Cross the bridge and walk along the bridleway until it joins the road heading east for 1,000 metres.

As you do head on the road you will see a communication aerial and an area surrounded by an 8 foot  high chain link fence.  Walk past the complex and look for the footpath sign finger board on your right for the Hardy Monument.

Route to follow to see the bunker.

Head south west over the field to your right. Here  you will see two iron age or earlier barrows on the top slope and to the rear the fence and former World War II military complex.

It was at one time an AAOR site or Anti-Aircraft Operations Room.  Used in the defence of Portland Navy Base and the town and port of Weymouth.

Inside there is a large concrete bunker building painted dark green.

AAOR and MI5 base for the Portland spy catchers now part of a farm complex.

It was this building that the MI5 and Special Branch used as a base for its surveillance of Houghton and Gee. Although it seems there was much more on Houghton from the records.

A team of around 30 were using it at different times. Plus it was needed for storing their numerous motor vehicles. A safe and secure location to prevent from being spotted by Houghton.  Or indeed Lonsdale or any Russian counter intelligence agents finding out that the British security services were actively carrying out surveillance on Houghton.

Stunning Views North And South From Bunker Location

Ending here looking south you can enjoy the view back over to the Island of Portland, the Jurassic Coast and town of Weymouth.

Look to the north you could head for the County town of Dorchester or take a visit to in one of the largest Iron Age hill forts in Europe that is just over a mile away.

Maiden Castle, Iron Age Fort, Dorset.

 Maiden Castle to the left dominates the area before the town itself.

Elm Tree Inn Communication Hub For The Spies

Other spy tracking options whilst in the area could be a visit to the Elm Tree Inn at Langton Herring. Here was a hub for message passing between Houghton and Lonsdale.

Elm Tree Inn, Langton Herring.

 A doubly ‘Thankful Village’. That is one where all of its soldiers returned safe from both World Wars.

It was here at the village inn that Houghton would wait to be contacted on the pub phone by Gordon Lonsdale. Of course, long before the mobile phone was invented.

He would visit the quiet pub about 4 miles west of Weymouth and spend time talking with locals and landlord.

All the time his motive was really just waiting for those vital phone messages to be relayed to him.

Elm Tree Inn, Langton Herring.

Probably it was a safer option being away from his home phone just in case that was traced or being monitored. Which indeed, it was later in the Special Branch and MI5 investigation.

His excessive drinking and spending habits were noted by the locals, although not reported at the time. However, later helped to yet further alert MI5 to him living much in excess of his Naval pay grade.

In fact, there were many MI5/SB phone intercept records of his home and work phone calls to Ethel and other women noted in the release of some of those files a few years ago.

Sit Where the Spies Did In ‘The Snug’ At The Inn

The current landlady of the pub Sarah Killingbeck has a framed information board in the pub. Its full of newspaper cuttings about the infamous spy story. She said: “Its amazing that this small pub in what was a very quiet rural village in the 1960’s was at the centre of such an international spy scandal. It  involved the security services of the USA, Canada, Great Britain and the Russians.”

The Inn has a leaflet describing the routes for are several circular or longer walks to and from the inn. An area where in World War 2 the ‘bouncing bombs’ were tested in the nearby Fleet.

Yet Another Spy Landing At Lulworth

Another key part of the Houghton story took place about 12 miles to the east of Weymouth at Lulworth Cove.

Lulworth Cove Houghton helped Russian spies come in here.

As well as bringing in two Russian agents one night at Portland.  He also assisted two Russian spies ashore in the famous cove. The male and female probably KGB agents were escorted by Houghton to his waiting Renault Dauphine car and then drove them safely away towards London.

Now called the Jurassic Coast and with the South West Coast Path running along its length there are plenty of cliff top walks. It’s possible of course to walk from Weymouth along that coastal path to Lulworth. Although for me best enjoyed in the nicer weather.

Gunnery and tank ranges Lulworth near to Bovington.

One of his earlier control agents had noted the tank firing ranges nearby and were interested to know more about Bovington and the ranges next door to Lulworth as well.

The Story Of The Portland Spies Continued Away From Dorset

Alresford

Alresford  a small Hamshire town which was on Houghton’s frequent route to London to meet up with Gordon Lonsdale. This stop off which as there was no M3 in those days would break the journey.

He was required to be at the toilets in the town at a precise time.  There to leave or collect a package secreted in the left hand stall.

What adds an extra dimension of danger to this.  Is that the town’s police station and house was directly opposite it, in Station Road.

London

The Cumberland Hotel.

Located at Marble Arch London this was the hotel that Houghton and Gee used on a number of occasions on their trips to London. It was from here that they went one evening to see a performance of the Bolshoi Ballet with tickets given to them by Lonsdale.

The Old Vic Theatre

Located just over the road from Waterloo station if they travelling to London by train they would arrive at. They met Lonsdale on a number of occasions and their very last meeting outside was on 7^th January 1961 when all three were arrested by Special Branch.

Ruislip 45 Cranley Drive

Although Houghton and Gee never visited the house it was from here that Russian illegal’s Helen and Peter Kroger ran part of the Portland Spy Ring. They were sending back the secrets  to the Soviets. Using the cover of antiquarian book business, the secret documents were reduced to micro dots and hidden on full stops within the various books!

When the house was searched there was a high speed radio transmitter and long range aerial system found in the roof. Plus, other spy equipment for producing microdots.

The couple were detected as possibly being part of the network when Gordan Lonsdale was followed there in his American car.

Further Reading

Author Trevor Barnes has a very detailed book about the ‘Portland Spy Ring’ and the deep undercover Russian agents involved called ‘Dead Doubles’

Dead Doubles spy book about the Portland Spy Ring.