EAST COAST SCOTLAND VERSUS WEST COAST
With parts of the west coast of Scotland talking about being swamped with tourists. I thought I would try to take a look and see what east coast Scotland has to offer the visitor.
Can the east measure up to the west?
And indeed that does appear to be the case.
Starting with the Cairngorms National Park due south of Inverness seemed to be an excellent choice.
Those visions of heather covered moorland, pine forested mountains, hills and lochs did not disappoint.
The colours seen from the Caledonian Sleeper alone were a nice opening as it gently headed north into the park. With swaths of yellow broom and lilac coloured lupins, which seemed to put on a terrific show just for me. Well, it seemed like it to me.
I awoke after a nearly 12-hour 560-mile trip up from one capital to the ‘capital of the highlands’, Inverness.
First Class cabin on the current Caledonian Sleeper.
Waking after the gentle rocking and rolling through the night and somewhat slightly bleary-eyed.
My First View Again Of The Cairngorms
I had my first view again of the Cairngorms after some 30 years.
Unfortunately the highly photogenic Dalwhinnie distillery slipped by before I was alert enough to grab my cameras!
A colourful swath of lupins came into view as a red signal haled the train for a few minutes as parts of the line are single track.
Leisurely it made its way through the park, stopping frequently. At I have to say, stations that Dr Beeching would have closed years ago but so pleased he hadn’t!
However, today those stations now provide a vital link in this remote ‘Highland’ area. For the people whom make their living’s off the land or in many cases the very tourists. Like me heading there.
As a way of getting to the Highlands on the eastern side of Scotland I rate this very highly indeed.
Scotland sleeper selfie as the train arrived in Inverness.
Although the current Caledonian Sleeper train is world-weary. Plus, there were some issues over the dining car catering experience and the heating/ventilation in the cabins.
New Sleeper Train To Come
A brand new sleeper train is set to operate on the service and it looks like there will be improvements in all those areas. I certainly hope so as the trip was marred by those earlier concerns of mine.
Once in Inverness the choices are quite endless. Head off on the Spey Valley ‘Whisky Route’ if you want to learn more about this golden spirit that is almost part of the Scot’s psyche.
The Tomantin distillery offers an excellent tour with hosts who love their jobs.
The coastal areas of the Moray Firth offer some excellent beaches. With small fishing harbours along its length to the major fishing port of Fraserburgh.
Lossiemouth and Buckie are fairly close together and have numerous fishing boats operating from their harbours. Although not so many from Lossie as its called.
Covesea Skerries Lighthouse At Lossiemouth
Nearby is the de-commissioned lighthouse of Covesea Skerries Lighthouse. It is now looked after by a group of willing local volunteers and the 140 odd steps climb to the top is so well worth it.
Covesea Skerries Lighthouse offers great views of the Moray Firth coast and is run by enthusiastic volunteers.
Sweeping views of the wide sandy beach one way and an inland one gives you a chance to look over RAF Lossiemouth. Here you can see Eurofighters passing by at lighthouse height often doing ‘circuits and bumps’ at the base a mile away.
Travelling back in the direction of Inverness you can pass the site of the Battle of Culloden. A visitor’s centre gives a very detailed explanation of the history of the site, the battle and the aftermath.
Passing through Inverness and down Loch Ness is really a must. As is stopping at the Fort Augustus where the loch is connected to Caledonian Canal.
I opted for a gentle cruise on the loch. However I was tempted by the Cruise Loch Ness team to try their rib cruises and what a great suggestion it was.
What a blast! A rib ride on Loch Ness forget about the monster I dare you to ride this monster for some monster fun.
Skimming over the waves and yes there are proper waves on the loch with the wind in certain directions. But what fun jumping from wave crest to wave crest and with the odd tight turns the rib skipper made sure the other passengers and I made the most of the conditions.
East Coast Scotland Has Plenty To Offer
Certainly a great way to experience the loch. Try to take in the views even if bouncing across it at 30 knots, a highlight for me and most of the others on the trip too.
Making a short loop and heading back up the other side of the loch you can stop off at places like Newtonmore. Here maybe try to trace your Scottish ancestry at the Clan Macpherson Museum, as you do not have to be a pure Macpherson to qualify. Other family names like Clarke, Ellis, Murdock, Parson and even Smith could get you in?
The museum of Clan Macpherson in Newtonmore. Find out if you qualify?
Leaving Newtonmore and 14 miles up the road to Aviemore. The centre for winter sports and in summer a walkers and hikers paradise.
Also a very popular tourist treat is the Strathspey Railway that runs about 7 miles to the Boat of Garten and then about 3 more to Broomhill. This railway was used as a film location as ‘Glenbogle’ in Monarch Of The Glen series.
This heritage railway does get extremely busy and I would recommend booking in advance if you can to avoid disappointment.
The Strathspey Railway at Broomhill or Glenbogle as its called in Monarch of The Glen TV series.
Wooden Cabins And Whisky
I was lucky enough to stay nearby at the Macdonald Lochanhully Resort at Carrbridge. The wooden cabins are set in an extensive birch wood around a small trout filled loch with numerous wild fowl living around it. Bird life in the wood is abundant so it offers a cosy, peaceful and natural environment for your stay.
The onsite restaurant ‘Jakes’ with friendly staff will cater for you if you do not wish to go totally self-catering. Tempting you with a no plates to wash up in your cabin. A selection that includes some local dishes, but all of generous proportions.
Cosy bedroom in the wooden cabins at Macdonald Lochanhully Resort, Carrbridge.
Two tastes of Scotland you have to try haggis and whisky. The haggis, neeps and tatties I ate at Jakes.
The whisky I sampled at Tomantin distillery about seven miles north from the resort. An interesting hour and fifteen minute tour of the building and process that has not changed in nearly a century followed by a chance to taste three of their output.
‘Water of life’ is not to my taste. It never has been, but the enthusiasm of their staff was truly intoxicating and it made for a delightful visit and I would heartily recommend it. However, again booking in advance is sensible around the peak of the holiday season.
East Verses West Coast
What of the question is east coast Scotland better than the west?
Sweeping sandy beach near Lossiemouth can you spot me on the beach…Crowded isn’t it?
Certainly the eastern side offers much. If perhaps a shade different but in the east you are unlikely to encounter hoards of tourists and narrow roads blocked with camper vans and cars or pot holed through constant an endless visitor influx.
I walked on deserted beaches, hiked on trails and river walks with only the wildlife for company. Encountered many delightful friendly soft-spoken highland people and I won’t be leaving it 30 years to return again!
Please note:I was hosted at Lochanhully Resort for one night.
